"Partir en piste", "Aller en riboul" are, according the Dictionnaire des expressions (French dictionary of expressions) both terms for describing an intense night out involving wandering the streets and drinking alcohol, something English speakers might term a bar crawl. The Dictionnaire des régionalismes de France (dictionary of French regional expressions) claims this is a particularly Breton activity, which goes to show just how ingrained their reputation as big drinkers is. However, it seems this reputation is somewhat exaggerated. It was above all in the 19th century that this unflattering image took hold. Public figures and doctors were worried about excessive alcohol consumption levels in the region, and rightly so. Between 1826 and 1906 in Finistère, levels of personal spirit consumption increased by three. Milk and water remained the daily staples for many families, but people would drink alcohol at gatherings such as fairs, markets, weddings or pardoning ceremonies and on these occasions, their glasses weren’t filled with cider but with a home-made spirit known as eau de vie (gwin ardant in Breton), which was drunk in ill-advised quantities.
Cider from Brittany, Wine from Bordeaux
Cider was only introduced in Brittany in the Middle Ages. Apple farming increased in popularity from the 16th century. “There was suddenly a rush to plant and cultivate apple trees in the Western part of Armorica”, explains historian Thomas Perrono. Apple orchards were particularly well-suited to areas like Cornouaille and Trégor-Goelo, but also Rennes. The Bretons may love their cider, but they are fond of wine too. In fact, the nobility and the clergy were great connoisseurs. Several abbeys had vineyards on their land, but wine was mostly imported from Bordeaux. Procuring the wine sometimed require very particular logistics. To get to Rennes for example, the wine would be transported via the river Vilaine. At Redon the casks would be transferred to another boat that could pass through the 13 locks separating Redon from Brittany’s capital, Rennes!
At that time, Brittany was perfectly located for the re-exportation of wine to northern Europe, the Americas and Asia. Cider production in the area was also increasing. In the 1930s a third of French cider came from Brittany. Things changed after the war however, as farming techniques were modernised and larger areas of farmland were required. Thousands of apple trees were removed and cider lost its place as Brittany’s go-to drink in favour of vin ordinaire, or table wine, and tap water, which was gradually becoming more readily available in the countryside. At the time however, Brittany was France’s number one hotspot for deaths related to alcoholism.
Vineyards and Microbreweries
Since then production has hugely diversified. There is still cider, of course, and one of the most renowned grands crus, from Guimaëc in Finistère, is even served at the Élysée Palace ! And Brittany is currently experiencing a bit of a revival where wine is concerned. New vineyards have been planted since winegrowing laws for the area were relaxed in 2016. Climate change is also helping to boost production levels. There are now more than 50 winegrowers in Brittany, mainly around the Gulf of Morbihan. The region is also now home to over a hundred microbreweries. But despite this thirst-quenching range of options, it seems the people of Brittany are drinking less. According to numbers published by the French public health institution, in 2021 7.9% of adults between 18 and 75 said they drank alcohol on a daily basis, a figure in line with the national average. This percentage of daily alcohol drinkers has been decreasing at a steady rate since 2005, a fact that could inspire Brittany’s beverage makers… How long will it be before the first non-alcoholic sparkling seaweed refreshment is spotted on supermarket shelves?
Translation: Tilly O'Neill
